You could say my parents found their vacation bliss in Cozumel, taking me along for my only international experiences while growing up in Ohio. I’ll never forget my first visit to the island, seeing its giant iguanas, snorkeling for the first time, and even swimming through the river caves at Xcaret (before it became the ‘Disneyworld’ of the Yucatán Peninsula). We returned for another three vacations as I grew older – learning to scuba dive, ride a moped, discover drinking & love; experiencing the best random connections of my adolescent life upon my last return. Just over six years had passed since my last visit when we decided to finish our summer adventure here, following Belize and Guatemala. We had determined a schedule surplus of two days and agreed to avoid Cancún until flying out, presenting an opportunity to stay in Cozumel!
It was difficult to contain the excitement of returning here for my 5th time, sharing the place I’ve held so dearly in my heart with my partner, Sierra. But before landing in San Miguel, we have some catching up to from those belize’n days…
From Bacalar, with Love
Let’s back up about a week & change.
Sierra and I had just left Caye Caulker, headed on a shuttle bus to Bacalar – a gemstone of modern, yet timeless, Maya-Hispanic mix of a town in the southern region of Quintana Roo, Mexico. Bacalar was a highlight of our 2+ months of traveling, and a splendid place to wander about town in search of the next meal or conversation. We ended up taking an extra day just to try more of the incredible comida! Various outdoor adventuring? Sure, we did that too, spending hours in the unreal opal-turquoise waters. I will not spoil the surprise for you – Surfing the net will reward you with the wonders of La Laguna de Siete Colores, Los Rapidos. And hopefully pin this destination to your list. However, just be sure to #touristresponsibly and mind of few guidelines to help preserve this amazing place for generations to come!
And just as we arrived, on a bus we departed for Tulum. Saying goodbye to our temporary home was difficult, even after four days in Bacalar; but other destinations were beckoning. We shall return in the future, and you should too!
Tulum and the ‘Grand Playa Wall’
We were both quite excited to visit Tulum. Expectations had been built up over the years after hearing so many wonderful things, the place remaining a mystery until now. We decided to stay local at Posada Los Mapaches, a tree-fort hostel built by mother and son central to the ‘popular’ areas: Ciudad, Playa, and Ruinas.
(A spectacular piece of art nonetheless!)
The short review: Tulum is great for your first Mexico excursion, providing an “all-inclusive gringo experience”, with plenty of delicious taqueria options, friendly folk habla en espanol and entertainment choices abound, including accessible snorkeling/diving areas. However, I should note caution for those who struggle in turning a blind eye to the troubles of tourism…more importantly, how multinational real-estate investment (i.e. massive hotels) changes rapidly the social and environmental dynamics, pushing the region to the edge of ecological collapse.
Riding a bicycle around town, to the Ruinas, and along the beach? Amazing.
Seeing the coast walled off by miles of hotel and private residence development, and beach covered in sargassum? Existential crisis…
Such rapid change…but why though?
After 3 solid days here, ending with a frustrating experience in Playa, a sweltering hot seemingly endless wait in the streets for a Collectivo Bus led us to bargain a gringo price (500 pesos) to take a cab to Playa Del Carmen instead. Hearing our driver’s tales of change for Tulum, Coba, and Playa del Carmen was not only eye opening, but confirmed many of our concerns associated with rapid (and unregulated) tourist development. Tulum was no longer the home of pristine beach camping, yurt accommodations, and pristine playa. But most importantly, it seemed like this rapid change had taken the locals by surprise! Let me be clear, there is nothing wrong with Tulum; it was my expectations which were incorrect. However, given Tulum’s history and its present course, imitating that of every Mexican coastal development-investment strategy just seems like a sad disappointment…
ENTER: PLAYA DEL CARMEN
Keeping the theme of staying local, Red Panda was an awesome hostel located just beyond the bizzaro-world downtown strip area; quiet and surrounded by some of the best food we ate along our adventure. We dropped off our bags, and immediately went for an evening beach stroll. Walking the equivalent of 2 blocks, I picked up about 11 beer can ringers off the beach – watching someone a few meters away take theirs and throw it onto the sand. So I grabbed it up and kept walking towards the giant heap of sargassum piled up from the tourist area.
Replicating a mixture of American upscale tourist appeal, with Vegas-like hype and shopping, central PdC was not our vibe. However, it was fun really to walk around this lively area with our overpriced gelato, have a few beers, people watch, and even stop in to look at unaffordable luxury watches under the keen eyes of two armed guards. However, we did not spend the last five weeks seeking out cultural experiences to be plagued with Western Consumerism and American rock ‘n roll…Given the amount of money spent dressing up the PdC downtown shopping area, one would think a bit more effort would go towards enforcing littering laws.
Once again, the best food was found outside of this madness, by street venders and obvious locally owned establishments. Whatever you do, do not miss the Al pastor near the local Collectivo Bus stop at 25 Av. Sur & Calle 2 Nte!
After another sunset walk along the beach, seeing the relentless sargassum devastation, picking up way too much trash, then stuffing our faces with a million tacos/various delicious maize things, we met up with our longtime friend Miguel, who had been living here for the past few months. It was troubling to hear his story of being pushed out of the US due to DACA uncertainty, landing here after some time working in schools on Cozumel. His experiences in PdC were tainted by drunken, sloppy, rude white tourists, and a cluster of issues surrounding the city.
After a few beers and many stories, we hopped the ferry to Cozumel…and we’re back!!!
Nostalgia in Cozumel
It had been nearly six years since Festival El Cedro on this lovely island. Six years of global change, innovation, and conflict, with my own evolution included – now a ripe 31. We decided to avoid the many large all-inclusive hotels, and AirBnB another gringo’s condo in true millennial fashion. And while we like relaxing, our adventurism in the pursuit of local food doe not fancy the all-inclusive model. First things first, beach time with tequila and tacos at the Residencias Reef playa, the western-most coastline of Cozumel.
The gorgeous day was refreshing, and quiet empty beach welcoming. A few locals had told us how slow things have been since the seaweed showed up (and of course where to get tacos…). We noticed the presence of Sargassum in the water, but our delicious cocktail of fresh fruits kept us distracted. Taking a dip in the ocean, I notice that any beach front not ‘owned’ by a resort has much of the tidal area covered in the seaweed, drying in the hot sun…hmmm.
After a day of relaxing and reflecting on the previous three months of traveling, I negotiated a fair rate for a Jeep rental at the neighboring exclusive hotel. Spending the day driving Sierra around the island of my childhood had always been on the list. Our first stop was the Punta Sur Ecological Park along the island’s southern tip. It was encouraging to see my entrance fee supported this non-profit operation to preserve the vivid green, crocodile-filled lagoons, pristine beaches with great off-shore snorkeling, and all the history to see in this place. Our lagoon tour boat captain was exactly what this park needed, having no reservations expressing his concerns about foreign development throughout the island (speaking English, looking directly at us…). But you can’t blame someone for their frustrations with Americans during these troubling times; and it is these moments when real human connections can thrive. However, the boat tour was not ideal to engage in political discourse and instead made sure to give my gratitude for his work via propinas before leaving the boat.
I was ecstatic to hear that the windward, eastern coastline of Cozumel, had been declared an ecological preserve. This means no further development (including a proposed Frump-o-tel) could take place, thus protecting the coastline and its critical sea turtle nesting sites. Not to mention that this part of the island serves as a barrier to hurricanes, not ideal for large hotel construction!
We stopped at Punta Sur for some snorkeling, spotting one of the island’s sea turtles and many sea-grass critters. The crystal-clear waters of my memory lived on here. My excitement surged to jump in surf, as I had every time before, as we rode north further up the coastline. Little did I know I would be pushed to the brink of tears when I arrived there…
It’s hard to believe that Humans could change, to any considerable degree, the infinite ocean. But we have.
And yet we continue to negatively affect our ocean and its vital ecosystems.
A ‘Mild’ Sargassum Season
“It’s like the coastlines of Kauaʻi!” I explained to Sierra.
Except this time, with heaps of decaying sargassum, spawned from innumerous gallons of untreated wastewater and agricultural runoff from across the World, combined with many effects of anthropogenic global climate change. It’s hard to believe that Humans could change, to any considerable degree, the infinite ocean. But we have. And yet we continue to negatively affect our ocean and its vital ecosystems.
I still have trouble digesting these thoughts, along with the immense challenges uncovered with such a realization…
We continued our drive, passing the places of my childhood (Rasta Bar, El Mirador, Playa Bonita); not seeing a single, ‘swimmable’ beach! Sure, you can get in, but even my adventurous ass wasn’t about to wade through the mess. Back in Caye Caulker, I had already experienced what a beard full of sargassum felt like…
And then, just like six years previous, we arrived at Chen Río’s, my cherished playa restaurant. It was a quiet afternoon with only one other group eating. The local crew that assembles delicious beach meals looked excited to see us. I told Teté my story, and how we finally arrived here after months of traveling to get pescado frito por dos; in-house, locally caught snapper – don’t forget guacamole, pico de gallo, and a few rounds of cervezas!
We walked the same stretch of beach I had spent hours in, back when it was my parents handling the cervezas. It was a good opportunity to enjoy the soft white sand, and take a closer look at the seaweed itself, which contained, or rather imprisoned seemingly thousands of items. At first, it seemed excellent scavenging grounds for birds, insects, and land mammals; and also known to be a haven at sea for fish. But then looking at the tidal zone, the abrasive particulate and debris appeared choking to any sea life living here. I asked Teté in my best Spanglish how the recent blooms have affected his crew and their livelihood. Business had slowed here, especially in the off-season, with not nearly as many people visiting the windward side as usual; however, fishing was still a successful business. After all, their crew provides much of the fish to local restaurants, taking their planchas beyond the thick scourge of floating, yellow-green Brillo-pads…
Ok, deep breaths. Things will be alright for Chen Río’s...
I ask to take a picture of the crew, pay up, give my sincere gratitude for a delicious meal. We drive off with a happy belly, but uneasy soul. Time for a few more beers at Coconut’s bar…
Our final days on this adventure included more beach time, but with a sudden increase in Sargassum coming to shore. We watch resort workers rapidly get to work, frantically raking the seaweed from the beach into piles. And then…well, who knows. A concerning reminder that there is still no organized, international plan, or funding for managing this massive regional problem. It’s hard to say what new ecological balance will result from this unprecedented “wave of sargassum”. It remains difficult for scientists to ascertain the origins of the atypically massive bloom, and without concerted efforts by Leadership, the problem has no viable solution in sight.
We eventually say goodbye to Cozumel and take the ferry back to PdC, where pontoon-style barriers have been installed along the downtown coast to shelter the up-scale resorts’ beachfront from the seaweed invasion, guiding it to the public beach area.
Why should those with means, and likely the political connections necessary to form a collaborative solution, have to be exposed to this problem‽
After a few more street tacos in PdC, we hop aboard the ADO bus to the Cancún Airport, bound for New Orleans – our final stop before returning to Seattle. I piece together my time on the island, the immersive adventure getting there, and all the heart-string pulling experiences along the way. Humans have an incredible capacity; as individuals, communities, and nations.
We have a pressing choice to make…
Continue to exploit our environment;
or make concerted efforts to protect it.
Thought Experiment:
For a World facing choices: choices that affect our lives, the lives of our offspring, and those to come…
WHERE & WHEN do we as a species, united for the environmental protection and preservation, agree to limit coastal development?
HOW can we as tourists, visiting someone else’s home, advocate for environmental protections and sustainable practices, without adversely effecting the local culture and economies?
There are few adventures more accessible than traveling up the Yucatán Peninsula and through the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. Do it. But please, journey as a humble tourist, compassionate towards the individuals whom call these places home, and conscientious of the environmental impact tourism has.
Robert writes to share his experiences and observations through a lens of curiosity and questioning; why are so many places on Earth facing analogous challenges? how do we leverage nature’s regenerative mechanisms to craft more robust, equitable solutions? Utility² represents a big-picture vision in solving many shared challenges, by modernizing municipal utility services & infrastructure, while empowering community through engagement and cultural resilience in under-served, and developing regions.
